Archive for the ‘Eating Plants’ Category

Grass Backwards

» May 22nd, 2013

You hear defenders of pastured beef say it all the time: cows were meant to eat grass. They typically make this claim to justify their choice of pastured beef over industrial, grain-fed beef—the stuff that hogs all the media attention for causing grave ecological damage with total disregard for animal welfare.

These claims might indeed be true. Cows probably are meant to eat grass and there is little doubt that growing grain to feed cows in feedlots is one of the most flagrantly dumb things humans do. Likewise, a feedlot is the antithesis of welfare. So, sure, cows were meant to eat grass.

Regrettably, the conversation usually ends here. That’s too bad. Any acknowledgment of grass-fed beef vis-a-vis grain-fed is, or at least should be, a starting point for a far more complicated discussion, one we tend to avoid, in part because it’s complicated and in part because it undermines the rationale for switching to pastured beef and claiming everything is just so very cool.

The popular media only scratches the surface of the grass-fed issue, typically failing to reveal those complications that are endemic to pastured beef production and, when probed closely, highlight fatal flaws to the alternative that we’re so eager to deem viable and grillable.

What if you learned that the vast majority of the grass that cows in the United States graze is infected with a fungus that systematically compromises their health?  Insane, right?  How could this be? One word: fescue. Fescue is the most commonly grazed grass in the United States, covering 35 million acres and, without doubt, pleasing cattle (compared to other forage) because, for whatever reason, they prefer the taste of it to other grasses. Because cows take to it so quickly, ranchers promote it.

The problem is that fescue is virtually all (90 percent) infected with an endophyte fungus that causes considerable problems for cows. Problems such as: difficulty gaining weight, reproductive issues, excessive salivation, less time spent grazing, reduced blood serum prolactin levels, a greater need for water, lower milk production. And so on. Some of these problems might have welfare implications.

More obviously, though, they reveal a fundamental malfunction with the grand environmental claims about the animal-land relationship at the core of intensively managed grazing systems. What’s often presented as an elegant model of efficiency—cows eating grass— is, when you properly consider the fescue issue, undermined by a grave mismatch between animal and forage, one that requires more grazing and more water to generate less milk and less flesh.

Let’s face a fact and make it a mantra: natural conditions are virtually impossible to recreate. To think we can do so and then consume the product of that “natural” relationship is folly. In any case, add fescue to the growing list of why pastured beef is no answer to the industrial production of beef. Cows may have been meant to eat grass. But that hardly means that we were meant to eat them.

 

Speaking of fungus, here is my latest piece in The Atlantic.com. 

Ham I Am

» May 21st, 2013

 

Some philosophers argue that the evolution of language grants humans exclusive rights above and beyond non-human animals. This controversial position has been effectively debunked, but the claim provides a nice opportunity to examine precisely how we use formal language to convey meaning about eating animals that some philosophers think, on the basis of this self-serving grammar, we have every right to eat.

A recent study reveals how several European languages have adapted to accommodate specific culinary habits—such as eating ham. Turns out that Norwegians have fewer words than the Spanish to describe ham. It also turns out that they eat about 400 grams of ham a year, compared to 3.3 kilos for the Spanish (the Italians eat 4.4 kilos  year).

So let me get this straight. We have language. Animals don’t. We use that language to create a lexicon to describe how animals taste. Animals, lacking a language, cannot provide a verbal rebuttal. This ham is succulent we say. The animal sits there, dead, on the plate. And, based on the one-sided conversation, we claim ourselves in the right. Seems like a lot of verbal sausage to me. (I know that animals do have language, but you know what I mean . . . )

In any case, that verbal sausage is being churned out faster than a carnival barker selling salvation at a hoedown. There’s a great deal of ballyhoo about declining rates of meat consumption in the United States. Great. Maybe more and more of us are becoming vegan before six or eating food, not too much, mostly plants. Whatever catchy little slogan we may have grasped onto, the decline does nothing to counter the emerging tsunami of additional animal exploitation in places like China and India.

Oh, and don’t forget Russia. Russia is now building a pig feed mill capable of churning out 500 tonnes of feed per day in order to supply a 300,000 head pig farm moving nearby from Ireland. In a textbook case of “spread effects,” a processing plant will complete the trifecta, churning out 27 different kinds of pig product. Plan to see a lot more of this kind of expansion in the years to come. If you know how to slow it down, let me know.

And if you’re sitting there all smug and satisfied with your locally-sourced, cave-cured, pig-pampered bacon approved by, who knows, Temple Grandin, it’s time to choke on your little strip of porcine death. Grandin is now working directly with . . . . . Tyson Foods. She’s now expanding her brand of humane exploitation to the company’s Animal Welfare Panel. Behold. She is joined by Ryan Best, former President of Future Farmers of America, and Miyun Park, head of the Global Animal Partnership Label, which I profiled in Harper’s last August.

It would take a very special pair of glasses to see the formation of this board a hopeful development. Also, from a political perspective, I don’t get it. Why would people who purport to care so much about animals place themselves in such a vulnerable position? I mean, the next time Tyson inevitably gets busted for some horrific animal welfare disaster or other, the blood will be on their hands, too.

I could go on. And on.

(Thanks to Jamie Newlin for the tips . . .)

The Oyster Considered

» May 20th, 2013

The outpouring of intelligent thoughtfulness in response to yesterday’s oyster post has my wheels spinning more than ever, even if I’m not yet convinced that, from any animal rights perspective, it’s wrong to eat an oyster. But here’s something to chew on: maybe being convinced is overrated.

Creatively speaking, I found myself wandering into some strange new territory as a result of the collective commentary.  Some background: the responses that I found most insightful were the ones that sought to reconcile a concern for animal rights with an imminently rational lever of action. In other words, I appear to be instinctively drawn to arguments that blend morality and rationality as a foundation for change. I doubt that I’m alone here. These explanations, although in this case not fully convincing on the oyster question, were consistent with how my mind attempts to justify human behavior.

The creative part comes in my (less instinctual) contemplation of the power of irrationality. I think it’s safe to say that the human approach to eating is more irrational than rational. The vast majority of what we place into our mouths, unless it’s done with utter thoughtlessness, is justified on grounds that do not hold up to reason. The inherent irrationality of eating is, in part, a legacy of commercial choice and the marketing culture that purposely confuses it. It’s also the result of culture in general, religions, and traditions—much of which makes little sense as well.  We are convinced to eat the way we eat by forces we hardly understand and most assuredly cannot fully explain. In this case, eating is very much like sex.

That said, rather than seeking to imbue our eating habits with pure rationality—probably a fool’s errand that goes against the grain of human nature—I wonder if it makes more strategic sense to promote the abstinence of eating animals even if that abstinence does not always qualify as rational. What I mean to say here is that there might be great value—at least when it comes to reducing animal suffering— in attempting to stigmatize the consumption of animals on logically flimsy grounds, especially when we find ourselves dealing with the marginal cases, such as the invasive wild boars or lionfish mentioned by John T. Maher.

Or oysters. I wrote yesterday that I choose to err on the side of caution when it comes to oysters. The implication was that this was perfectly rational, a personal expression of the precautionary principle. Maybe it is. But in another sense, as I explore my deeper motivation for keeping oysters on the “no eat list,” I’m realizing that, on some level, my aim is simply to stigmatize the act of eating animals. What matters to me first and foremost is the cultural process of stigmatization. Justifications can follow. And whether they follow convincingly is really not of much concern to me. And that’s not rational.

In any case, I appreciate the thought-provoking comments. Whether you are aware of it or not, this blog has come in for a bit of criticism by some activists for being over intellectualized and under actualized. In other words: too much thinking and not enough doing. All I can say is that every movement in history that has mattered has successfully braided thought and action into a coherent whole.  Beyond that, commentary like yesterday’s obviates any need for a defense of what we do. Onwards.

 

 

 

Consider the Oyster

» May 19th, 2013

I’ll admit that oysters give me a case of the fits. When I ate them, I liked them. A lot. I don’t eat them anymore, but when people ask me why I forgo the oyster I have a harder time justifying my choice than I do for pigs, cows, chickens, and other obviously sentient animals. The literature on oyster sentience—in so far as I’ve broached it—seems ambiguous at best on the question of oyster sentience and, given that I rely so heavily on the clear non-sentience of plants as my justification for eating plants, I do find the oyster dilemma to be a real one. The best I can say right now is that I prefer to err on the side of caution, awaiting evidence that definitively proved oyster non-sentience, evidence that I doubt will ever come.  That said, “fruit of the sea” does not have a totally implausible ring to me.

This topic comes up a lot, I know. In one of the more intriguing cases, it came up a few years ago on Rhys Southan’s incisive blog Let Them Eat Meat. Check it out here. You will be annoyed by it, I imagine, and for good reason—Southan is extremely thoughtful and methodical in his argument that oysters pose a challenge to veganism. Notably, the responses that came into his post to counter his position did little to unravel his points, a failure that Southan himself summarizes with aplomb.

Sadly, it’s not enough in the instance of oysters to simply say that “I’m a vegan and therefore I don’t eat animals.” We need more a more qualitative justification than that. Nor is it really enough to say, as I do, that oysters might be sentient and therefore should be avoided. Insects might be sentient, too, but all vegans kill them on a daily basis in ways that, in many cases, could be avoided. In any case, I’m not trying to be a pain in the ass by granting some legitimacy to the oyster dilemma. I’m only writing out of sheer curiosity and intellectual honesty.

It goes without saying that I’m looking to readers for answers—ones that I will send to Southan to see if he’d like to respond. Rest assured, there will be no oyster slurping for me. But I’d like to have a better justification for my abstinence.

 

Orwellian (the good kind)

» May 18th, 2013

If you are a committed vegan you have likely thought to yourself that you cannot believe you ate how you once ate, much less lived how you once lived. In a way, this is an excellent emotion to experience. It provides honest affirmation of your new, healthier, and more compassionate way of life. It validates your choice of the road less traveled. In another way, though, it can be a dangerous feeling to nurture because, if not treated with due respect, or if understood as a source of shame, it can lead to the sort of alienating smugness that too often gets vegans sent to the office for having a bad attitude.

What I mean here is that, while we may very well see our former selves as reflections of a fundamentally different being, existential continuity dictates that, lo and behold, your old meat-eating, gluttonous, sybaritic self was still you—the same person you are now— and, truth be told, there is great value in not only owning up to that former aspect of your identity, but also to embrace it and recall what that mindset and former identity was like. The benefit of making this self-empathic leap into the past is that it makes us better able to relate to people who have not, and could not even consider, making the leap we have since made.  It brings us back to a past that, for most people around us, remains the present.

George Orwell, who I’m gradually coming to appreciate as the last century’s greatest essayist, fully understood the ideological power inherent in keeping emotional ties to former selves. In 1940, he wrote an essay called “My Country Right or Left,” in which he explored his own transitional experience to liberalism in the face of the horrific aftermath of World War One.  Undoubtedly pleased with his evolution toward enlightenment, he nevertheless rued those who acted as if that they were born into it, virgin-like in their liberalism, requiring no such transition and thus having no past to disown.

He wrote, “To this day it gives me a faint feeling of sacrilege not to stand to attention during ‘God Save the King.’ That is childish, of course, but I would soon have had that kind of upbringing than be like the left-wing intellectuals who are so ‘enlightened’ that they cannot understand the most ordinary emotions. It is exactly the people who hearts have never leapt at the sight of a Union Jack who will flinch from revolution when the moment comes.”

I love this. What Orwell is saying is that the power of an enlightened ideology derives from the power of transition, and that transitions lose their source of strength if we pretend our less enlightened former selves never existed. How else to understand the “most ordinary emotions”—such as a desire to eat animals?  Orwell was not writing about veganism, of course, but his message could not be more relevant. He goes on to praise “the power of one kind of loyalty to transmute itself into another” as an element for positive change for which “no substitute has yet been found.”

If true, Orwell’s observation, as well as my interpretation of it, raises future issues for vegan activism as more and more vegans raise children to be vegans from the start. What impact will the lack of transition have on those who never knew what it was once like to sing war songs in honor of the Union Jack? Or, lacking such perspective, will vegans from birth, seeking the power of transition, be more prone to make the change in the other direction, toward eating animals? This is a question for which I have no answer (although lots of thoughts).

Steve King Has a Dream

» May 17th, 2013

 

You have to give the Humane Society of the United States credit for scaring the snot out of Big Agriculture. For those who persist in thinking that HSUS and other welfare organizations are in some sort of dark conspiratorial cahoots with our nation’s most powerful producers of animal products, I would urge you to look closely at the current Farm Bill.

In particular, consider the recent addendum snuck into the bill by Rep. Steve King (R-Iowa) during the latest House Agriculture Committee session.  An excellent overview of this sordid episode came yesterday from Mariann Sullivan, of Our Hen House. Read it here.

The King addendum stipulates that any state requiring minimal welfare standards in animal agriculture—think Prop 2 in California—cannot ban the importation of animal products from states that lack those standards.  This unctuous loophole effectively negates any and all local initiatives to seek better conditions for farm animals. In so doing, it leads to what Sullivan rightly calls “a race to the regulatory bottom.” Hard to imagine that we could get much lower.

Concrete if hypothetical example:  If you’re an egg producer in California, the motivation will be, under the King amendment, to move to Nevada (or Idaho or Montana . . .), abandon the costly welfare standards imposed by Prop 2, but still maintain access to lucrative California markets.  Frankly (and maybe they did), the political advocates for animal welfare improvement should have seen this one coming all the way from Iowa. King’s dream cannot be that much of a surprise.

Still, this is the cynical politics of fear, a politics inspired in part by the HSUS’s successful efforts to push “minimal” (that’s Wayne Pacelle’s own description) improvements onto animal agriculture on the state level.  It is, however, also the politics of politics, something more sinister, and something that one enters at his peril, or at least armed with low expectations and a regiment of lobbyists.

It’s hard to get much of anything done in a top-down sort of way in our Federalist system of government, much less the imposition costly welfare reforms for the voiceless. The horse-trading, as it were, began in 1787 at the Constitutional Convention and has since only intensified to make centralized change more costly and difficult than it need be. Sadly, frustratingly, the King amendment is just another loophole in the Swiss cheese of political reform for farm animals.

This ease with which the King hole was punched suggests very strongly that organizations such as HSUS are better off spending their time seeking change on the corporate rather than the political level. I don’t mean to overstate the dichotomy here between corporations and government, nor do I think political pressure is useless. However, I think that a successful melding of documented consumer interest in welfare standards with persistent corporate advocacy has the potential to render efforts by madmen such as King moot, or at least limit their effectiveness to serving as desperate cries for help under the immense pressure of compassion that’s still struggling to find its loudest bullhorn.

 

What to do? Here’s this, from Gene Baur at Farm Sanctuary:

I need your help. Right now, please call your Representative in the U.S. Congress and ask that she or he work to remove the King Amendment from the House Farm Bill, which passed by a voice vote on Wednesday night.

The King Amendment could negate most state and local farm animal protection laws, including those regarding factory farm confinement, horse slaughter, and foie gras (along with other laws related to environmental protection, worker safety, and more).

Please make a brief, polite phone call to your U.S. Representativeurging opposition to the King Amendment. You can say simply, “Hi. I live in CITY, I’m calling to ask that Representative NAME oppose the King Amendment to the Farm Bill, which could slash protections for animals and violates state’s rights.” If the person you speak with doesn’t know your representative’s position, please leave your name and phone number, and ask for a call back.

After calling, please submit this form to automatically send a follow-up message.

 

 

Interview with a Nine-Year Old Vegetarian

» May 16th, 2013

I did the following interview with my daughter, Cecile.

JM: Why did you become a vegetarian? 

CM: Because I  love animals and I don’t like how they kill them for food.

JM: What do your friends think about you being vegetarian? 

CM: Sometimes they ask why I became a vegetarian, but one of my friends is a vegan so . . . she gets it. But some of my other friends don’t really get it.

JM: When they don’t get it what do you say to them?

CM: I say that they hurt animals for food and they kill them and, like you, I don’t think they should kill animals if they don’t have to.

JM: What are the biggest challenges you face as a vegetarian? Or, are there big challenges you face?

CM: Not really.

JM: What’s a typical lunch look like for you? 

CM: A chocolate almond butter sandwich, orange slices, blackberries, and mango; sometimes Tofurky slices.

JM: If you were stranded on an island  and could have only one thing to eat . . .

Fruit. Because that’s what they would have on an island.

 

Beware Nation: Vegan Bullies on the Loose!

» May 15th, 2013

 

There’s a whole cottage industry dedicated to declaring disdain for vegans. You can, if you’re such a person, buy a t-shirt or bumper sticker or lapel pin that says “I hate vegans,” “vegans are evil,” or (however illogically) “save a cow, eat a vegan.” You can, if it fuels your warped sense of justice, purchase a keychain, a coffee mug, a poster, or a “girls’ t-shirt” imprinted with such advice as “kill vegans and carry on.”  And woe to the advocate who tries to counterbalance these assertions. A recent review of a children’s book on the virtues of veganism (published on a foodie site called CHOW) led with the question “Will this Vegan Book Kill Your Kids”?

The best reaction to this misanthropic display of ignorance is almost always to ignore it. You could be even more generous than that. As is often the case in life, you could recall that when a person feels the need to lash out with malice it typically means something is rotting inside his own withered psyche. As I tell my kids, if a person is treating you unfairly you need to be sympathetic because it means he or she is unhappy inside. That’s more than a line swiped from a parenting book. It’s advice I deeply believe.

What thus currently motivates me to break my silence about the aforementioned anti-vegan tantrum is the recent perpetuation of a profoundly disturbing double standard. Vegans endure a slow drip of mockery from the dominant culture, most of it a lot quieter than the examples supra, and they generally (and wisely) react with a roll of the eyes and a shrug. No need to get all hot and bothered about the small stuff. But—and here comes the paradox—the moment a vegan has the nerve to monkey wrench the status quo with a little social-media vituperation of his own, it’s worthy of a leading news story. National news story.

I was going to skip writing about this incident altogether, primarily because I thought it would blow over as the worthless news item it is.  But damn if it doesn’t keep proliferating (and getting sent to me by readers wondering what I think). The gist of the story, if you haven’t heard, goes like this: “vegan students allegedly have been posting angry words against Elk Grove High School’s agriculture program on social media sites such as Instagram.” Story is here.

Angry words! Well, boo-hoo. People who are learning to kill animals are getting their feelings hurt by angry words from people who happen to think it’s wrong to kill animals. The paradox here is remarkable. When vegans keep quiet and endure what essentially amounts to a culture that abuses them through its unquestioned celebration of slaughter, their silence is accepted as an appropriate posture to assume in light of the dominant norm. However, on the rare occasion that the fed-up vegan speaks out against the tyrannical killing of animals—something that in a rational context every sane person would agree is wrong—his actions are quickly deemed worthy of a national media rebuke. Worse, that attention gets folded into another popular (and more legitimate) media hobbyhorse: bullying. Presto! Now you have “the vegan bully” as the latest and greatest media creation.

This stinks to royal high heaven. Why this kind of journalistic injustice becomes media jetsam is not easy for me to understand. But I think the explanation has both a superficial and more sub-structural component. The superficial one is just plain old run-of-the-mill media whoredom. This uppity vegan narrative was exactly the kind of story that would titillate audiences seeking entertainment posing as real news.  All those wispy and limp-wristed vegans bullying those big bad steak eaters? Run it!

The deeper and more psychologically relevant component is that the story satisfies our culture’s double-decker desire to a) see a culturally peripheral group get uppity and b) to see that culturally peripheral group that got uppity get its comeuppance. Both desires—for the emergence and the smack down— stoke our basest urges to see power upended and then restored. It’s sort of like wanting to witness a harrowing thunderstorm—lots of drama and noise and then, after we all talk about it for a while—back to normal.

When high school vegans refer to high school omnivores as “carcass munchers” and the insult makes headline news, you know that there’s a takeaway worth putting in the bank. As I see the matter, it is this: vegans might be peripheral to the culturally  dominant norm, but that norm is currently so insecure—resting as it does on a basic injustice—that its handmaidens work in a state of panic to insure that our humiliation is made public.  But, eventually, like an angry parent spanking a child in the agora, it will soon become clear who the real bully is.

 

Vegan Standards

» May 14th, 2013

 

The other day, while sitting at an upscale bar drinking a (well-earned) pint of beer, I overheard a woman a few barstools over ask about a menu item called “Scotch eggs.” The bartender’s eyes lit up and he told her that they were “soft boiled eggs wrapped in chorizo, deep fried, and covered in a bourbon mustard sauce.” The woman sort of squirmed with delight and requested three.

But I had questions.

Who convinces us to eat this way? How is such an option somehow deemed normal? What insidious feats of marketing agility are required to reduce a seemingly intelligent woman to altricial dependence on a menu item defined by animal cruelty and impending heart disease?  At what point in modern time did members of commercial cultures lose our sense and sensibility when it came to ordering stuff that assumed our bodies are toxic waste sites? Or did we ever have such judgment?

These questions ricocheted around my mind alongside a related set of thoughts and observations about food choices and the cultural frameworks in which they’re forged. It’s perfectly legitimate to take a sledgehammer of disgust to our vast emporium of fast food options. Chicken nuggets and double bacon cheeseburgers comprise the commonplace target of our righteous culinary disgust and indignation. The Burger Kings and the McDonalds of the world are—HSUS awards notwithstanding—impugned by the foodie elite for the sins of bad taste, environmental degradation, inattention to animal welfare, and esthetic and dietary turpitude.  It feels good to trash talk junk food.

Climb the franchise ladder another rung or two and you’ll notice that the cultural condemnation has recently been extended to another type of restaurant. It’s now the Applebees and Chili’s and TGI Friday’s of the world that are on the foodie radar for their faux authenticity, a reality marked by the fact, as Tracie McMillan reveals in The American Way of Eating, nothing is prepared in the kitchen. Everything served within these kinds of restaurants is fabricated in a warehouse before being packaged and frozen and shipped from central processing to the periphery. The “chef,” as it were, need only know how to operate a microwave. This tragic chasm between production and consumption reduces these outlets to the popular status of junk— refurbished junk, but junk nonetheless.

But keep going. Venture a couple of more rungs up the ladder and you’ll eventually reach the kind of place where I sat and drank my beer. Here, amidst tasteful décor and cool music, you might notice that you have quietly passed a threshold into cultural and culinary legitimacy. People are better dressed, looking like they have come from important jobs where they made Big Decisions. You appear to be orbiting in a more refined and dignified world.  And by some standards, you are. Indeed, by conventional standards, everything has improved.

Everything in the sense that the rhetoric of foodie legitimacy has becomes thicker than the bourbon mustard sauce smothering my bar mate’s fried egg-and-sausage abomination.  Listen to the language spoken therein. The eggs are “farm-fresh,” the sausage “cured-in-house” and the beer I drank was “all-local” (Whale Tail Pale Ale from Nantucket—not bad, actually). The bottles of liquor in front of me have a pared-down design and crisp but evocative names such as “Farmhouse” or “Berkshire.”

But, on closer inspection, nothing at all has changed. Nothing because, beer aside, the offerings on the menu are, when you get past all the rhetorical insulation and architectural flourishing, a load of fried trash just as guilty of perpetuating bad health, environmental degradation, and animal cruelty as the most nutritionally egregious offering coming out of a fast food box. In order to grasp this point, of course, you need a more refined standard. You need a vegan standard.

The vegan standard rejects the charade of rhetoric that characterizes culinary life toward the top of the ladder. In so doing it highlights the need for vegans, armed with our critical standards, to kick down the food system’s ladder and begin to build a new foundation, one based on basic respect for human health and the intrinsic worth of non-human animals.  The vegan standard demands that we be critical thinkers and eager activists at once. The vegan standard demands that we eat as if the world could eat that way.

Of course, we are working to do this everyday. As we do so, though, I wonder to what extent our deepest challenges derive from the persistence of mindless American eating habits—which strike me as pliable—and to what extent they derive from something far more challenging and insidious and difficult to hold still and boot in the ass with a rational argument: status anxiety.

Nobody (I think it’s safe to say) is especially proud to eat at a fast food joint. Nobody blogs or brags or talks to friends about the great Big Mac they had the other night. The reason for this reticence is simple: what fast food strives to provide ultimately transcends the art of status seeking. It aims to give us a convenient and cheap dose of short-term pleasure. Fast food isn’t even trying to sell us a story, or offer us a sense of place in the world, or become a marker of our flimsy identity. Its basic endeavor is too pragmatic for any of that. There’s nothing glamorous or terribly damning about succumbing to it as an option. A parent feeding her kids McDonalds is doing so as an acceptable last resort. Such will happen when your meal is advertised in the store window as costing $2.99.

The Applebee’s of the world once offered ways around the status indifference posed by fast food. Spend a bit more money and you are served on plates, with silverware and the accoutrements of higher-class food. The steak has real grill marks and the shrimp are wedged onto the rim of a glass bowl with some semblance of elegance. Napkins are cloth and you are not served through a window or over a counter next to a cash register. But, as I suggested, we’re catching on to the cheap tricks posed by these mid-level restaurants, and as we do it’s left to these stand-alone outfits such as the on where I sat and drank my well earned beer to assuage our status anxiety with the decadent trappings of culinary indulgence.  And damn if they don’t do a good job of inflating our egos along with our waistlines.

Vegan and foodie standards are  poised to have a face-off, one in which we are judged not by the quality of our rhetoric but the content of what’s on the plate. This must happen. But as we marshal our arguments and hone our message it’s important to keep in mind that at the top of the ladder the battle is as much over the irrational pursuit of status as it is getting an honest meal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A New Wave of Vegan Literature

» May 13th, 2013

A wave of accessible vegan literature is currently crashing upon us. This is good. Over the last few months I’ve had the pleasure of reading advance copies of three impending (and maybe just recently published) volumes and one book that’s been out for about a year. Not only do these projects complement each other brilliantly, but they each stand on their own as a remarkable analysis in a league of its own.  The cause of veganism, because of these projects, is being deeply enriched. It’s hard to me to think of another time when, in such a concentrated moment, so many important volumes on animal rights came down the literary pike.

I will, over the course of the year, dedicate space to full length reviews of each volume (if anyone want to take a shot, I’m always eager to assign reviews). For now, just a mention and a quick sketch. Will Anderson’s This is Hope (which I’m still reading) is the most sophisticated and beautifully written blend of ecology and vegan ethics that I’ve ever read. Will’s vision is broad, and it puts prevalent models of environmentalism to shame. Hope Bohanec’s The Ultimate Betrayal is a piercing look into the moral schizophrenia that underscores the practice of so called “humane farming.” She does an especially fine job of highlighting the depravity involved in cultivating the friendship of an animal you eventually plan to exploit. Sherry Colb’s Mind if I Order the Cheeseburger? offers an extended and fiercely intelligent answer to virtually every objection to veganism that a vegan has had to face. You will be amazed not only by Colb’s ability to anticipate your questions, but to cover them with great insight and wit. Mark Hawthorne’s Bleating Hearts is the most comprehensive single compendium of animal exploitation that exists. Here at EP we tend to approach ethics through considering what’s on the end of our forks. Hawthorne forces us to expand that vision in ways even experienced ethical vegans will find informative and alarming.

We need these books to not only do well on their own (read: buy them) but we also need others to know about them. One of my projects this summer is to find a mainstream media outlet to let me do a multi-book review in an effort to recalibrate where veganism is in 2013. If these books are any indication, it’s a star that is rising.